Newcastle - Mulubinba

At the end of the last post we noted we had arrived in Newcastle which is also known as Mulubinba in the language of the Awabakal people who lived in and cared for this land long before any Europeans arrived. Their name for the town reflects the sea fern that grew here and the roots of that fern, which unusually for a fern, were very edible, once cooked (as some Europeans found, less edible when attempted raw). 

Indeed, Newcastle has had many names since the arrival of the Europeans: initially it was known as Coal Harbour, then it became Kings Town (named for Governor Philip Gidley King, the third governor of New South Wales) for a short period and then Newcastle, the great coal town of that period in England. So, it was clear that the British interest wasn't in the lands flora or fauna, but in its mineral wealth - Coal.

Why are we here?

Unusually, the reason we choose to stop off at Newcastle is not one or two, but three.

The first and most obvious is that Newcastle is a big town a short distance north of Sydney and a reasonable drive on the day we pick up our hire-car, so aren't travelling as far as we might on another day.

The second happened after I had started my original draft of the holiday, which included a stop here. My youngest nephew, Cian, had decided to study Engineering at the University here. He began in a civil track but at the end of his first year has transferred to Mechanical Engineering. Newcastle is one of the world's top ranking universities in this discipline - well done Cian!

The third is Covid related. During the first lockdown, when Drew was working 18 hour days in the front room of our house building some system critical software, I decided that sitting reading, as fun as that is, wasn't satisfying enough - so I signed up for a series of free online courses with Future Learn. I ended up doing 42 of their courses during that period about a wide range of topics (A spreadsheet of the ones I did is available for anyone who wants to know😂). But the one that made the greatest impact on me was the one produced by the University of Newcastle, NSW called "Great South Land: Introducing Australian History" an updated version of the course is still available on the Future Learn site. The story of Nobbys Headland or Whibay-gamba was one that struck me particularly.

‘Whibay-gamba’ (Nobbys Headland) has always been a prominent focal point of Mulubinba (place of the Sea Ferns) and its significance has always been understood by the First Nations People who lived in this area.

This important site is home to the Dreaming story of the Giant Kangaroo who is said to inhabit the rocky outcrop of Nobbys after hiding here to escape judgement for a crime committed to a female Wallaby. To escape punishment for this crime he was forever unable to leave. Frustrated with his self-imposed isolation, he would crash his great tail against the earth causing the whole area to shake.

This Dreaming story recognises both local Indigenous social control and importantly shows us cultural understanding by revealing a significant environmental hazard – one that Indigenous knowledges have known for thousands of years – that Newcastle has always been prone to earth tremors. Source

So, here we are

Dinner Arrangements

I'd made arrangements to meet with Cian while we were in the town via my brother, David. David had asked if Cian could bring some friends with him. This seems a reasonable request, the last time I had seen Cian was the weekend before the family left Wales for Australia, seven years ago. Cian was only 12 then, and apart from the fact that I have resemblance to my father, who Cian and his siblings knew far better than me. He would only have heard from me in birthday and christmas cards. So, it seemed perfectly reasonable to me that he bring some moral support to meet his uncle for the first time in all that while.

I still had no suspicions when David confirmed the table was booked for 5.45am - a very early time from my perspective, but not from the New South Wales perspective, more about that in a future post. David said Cian and his mates go bouldering on a Monday night, so would be heading there afterwards. I had to google bouldering, so I have shared the explanation above.

Surprise 

So when Drew and I came down from our room in time to walk to the restaurant for dinner, it was less than a mile away. I was stunned to find my brother and sister-in-law sitting in the lobby of the hotel.

It turns out Cian's two friends are his parents who had spent the weekend visiting him in Newcastle, before staying to meet with us, a week and a bit earlier than we had expected. 

What a tricksy, yet clever surprise about which Drew and I had not the least suspicion. It was a joy to catch-up with them both for the first time in seven years, but even more of a joy because of the surprise element.

Dinner

Cian arrived twenty minutes later and drove us to the restaurant which was called Light Years. Like many places in Australia its dining style was relaxed and its menu an Asian fusion. With dishes from Thailand, Malaysia, Mongolia, India and China.

It was a lovely meal, as the conversation followed so smoothly and it seemed like we had only been talking a day or two ago, not seven years.

Elaine began her meal with a Pickle Plate with a wonderful selection of a wonderful collection of pickles - daikon radish, red cabbage and cucumber.

I opted for Hot and Sour Cucumbers that is what the Americans would call Dill Pickles with Chilli and Sesame. They were crunchy and tasty and delicious.

For Drew's starter he had a Prawn Roll which had a Yuzu Tartare, Lettuce, Tobiko and Furikake in a Brioche Bun. He really enjoyed it.

For my main I had a Mongolian Style Lamb Rump, with cubes of lamb with a capiscum, Celery, Onion, chilli and cumin sauce - Rich and flavoursome. 

Cian had Bao Buns with Spicy Korean Fried Chicken with Cucumber, Ranch dressing and lettuce. He really enjoyed them and was persuaded by his mother to share some of the chicken which was very tangy. 

Elaine had Cumin Spiced Cauliflower for her main, the menu says this is Cauliflower with Strange Flavour Sauce, Coconut, Dill, Mint and Crunchy Things! Whatever was strange about the flavour it was very asian and nicely spiced - there were plenty of nuts and seeds as crunchy things! I was sitting next to Elaine, so managed to enjoy sharing some of her cauli. 

For his main Drew had Crispy Masterstock Pork Belly with sticky chilli caramel, charred pineapple and herbs. He quietly sat and eat his way through it, which is evidence it must have been tasty.

David choose Wagyu Beef Rendang for his main this was Beef malay style with Thai Basil, Lemongrass and Coconut Cream again it was reasonably spiced. 

Drew managed to be persuade to have a dessert - Custard Bao Buns, these Deep-Fried Custard Bao with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, Szechuan Caramel and Five Spice Sugar meant Drew had both a spice and sugar rush at once.

Cian having headed off for his bouldering, Elaine, David Drew and I walked back to the hotel. Here are some of the images - there are as ever more on Flickr 

Elaine, thoughtful as ever, had bought a supply of sugary treats for Drew to help him keep his sugar level up on the journey. He was very grateful and felt they were very on brand with Australia's wildlife.