The Longest Day of the Holiday

As the title of the blog implies what we are going to be doing today is spending 48 hours getting from Japan to home, a longer than average day, in fact almost a day longer than a usual day. So, to paraphrase Listen with Mother "If you are sitting comfortably - Then I'll begin".

Friday Morning

The day begins when I wake and go to the toilet at 4am on Friday 4th October (which is 8pm on Thursday 3rd of October from the perspective of UK time) it is going to be 48 hours at least before I see bed again, apart from a folded down plane version.

Drew wakes up at 5am - I make coffee for us both at 5am and again at 6am - we both do our ablutions and begin to pack. We won't be leaving the hotel early this morning, but the better prepared we are the better it will be, in my experience.

Breakfast

We go down to breakfast at 7am. On the first two days here we have sat at the same table, but today the Maître d' sits us at a table a little further down the room, so here is the view from our table this morning.

As is conventional Drew began with fruit

While I had fruit, nuts and seeds

Today I decided to be experimental, giving it is Friday I didn't just want to default to the standard breakfast, just without meat, so I decided to opt for the Japanese Breakfast. Truth be told I wish I'd explored this earlier in the stay, as it was absolutely amazing.

It was like a selection box, but a selection box of fish and vegetables. Looking at the photo below you will see at Centre Bottom the Lightly grilled Alfonsino i.e. Japanese red snapper, served with a tangy paste.

On Bottom Left is a selection of vegetables cooked in a wok (or Japanese equivalent) - broccoli, mushrooms and celery among others. 

The Bottom Right is a Tofu in a light jus with a crunchy water chestnut type vegetable and a soft dough ball.

On the top right are two well cooked pieces of chilli flavoured omelette with chillies beside it.

At the centre top are what the Spanish call Chanquetes, often translated as whitebait, but not the whitebait used in Britain. It is Leucopsarion petersii by its official title, served on a bed of mashed vegetable (turnip or radish)

On the top left is a variety of lightly flavoured crunchy pickles.

Wow, what an amazing delight.

This wasn't all, alongside the box with six treats were a dish the waitress called Natto and Soy, Natto is fermented soy beans with a flavour influenced by the Bacillus subtilis they create when fermented. I wonder if Drew will start making this for my breakfast as a substitute for my fermented cabbage aka Sauerkraut. [Co-pilot's note: I detect, dear readers, another new job coming my way!!]

There was also a little pot of Sticky Rice

and a Shinshu Miso Soup

Poor Drew only had a omelette with cheese, onion and tomato with pork sausage and bacon, which just goes to prove you don't need meat in a meal to make it full of delight and filling too.

He had finished his while I was less the halfway through mine. He even took a live action shot of me eating breakfast with chopsticks.

His comment: "You should see that tongue go when food is involved!"

Drew continued trying the various sweet foods available. This morning this was an Apple Cream Danish and a Banana Chocolate Danish

Followed up by a Muscat Danish. Meanwhile, I'm still working through my breakfast on the other side of the table.

Late Morning at the Shangri-La 

We go back up to the room at 8am and do any final sorting and planning for the days ahead. Check-out is arranged for Midday, so we decide to make use of the last few hours in the room. Quietly relaxing and taking in the Tokyo views.

We also discuss how to reach the other side of Tokyo Station. Since we arrived on Tuesday we have seen what looks like a formal entrance to the station, that is on the other side of the tracks from us. You can see it in this photo taken from the hotel room. We decided we would explore a way to it later today.

Postcards

We had also been looking for postcards every day since we arrived. Yesterday we stopped in a few likely looking gift shops as we walked through the shopping area. But we found none.

Having failed to find any I even googled it and this morning read an article called Postcards from Japan. We felt like the author of the piece who says:

I kept looking for postcards in Tokyo. I looked and looked and looked, but never found any. It was my last day and I was starting to stress, so I asked people where I could find postcards. Unanimously they responded at the post office.

 

With the further help of Google we looked for Post Offices near the hotel and discovered that the Tokyo Central Post Office is, yes you guessed it, in the square outside Tokyo Station - in fact it is in the white building in the centre of the photograph above.

Tokyo Station and Tokyo Central Post Office

We leave the room at 11.30am having had a really lovely experience here in the Shangri-la, we do down to reception on the 28th floor and check-out. The helpful lady at reception allows me to pay with any remaining cash I have (except that I know I'll need for the trains later) and pay the rest with my credit card. She arranges for a porter to tag our bags and take them down to the Ground Floor storage area from which we can pick them up later.

We head in Tokyo Station and follow the signs for the Marunouchi Metro Line as we know it has an exit to the other side of the station. Walking under the lines you suddenly realise just how enormous this space is. So much so that it takes well over thirty minutes for us to emerge at the front (or back, depending on your perspective) of the station.

This side of the station is, as we suspected, quite grand. There is something almost Victorian about its design.

And there is a large open square in front of it, reminiscent of many Grand European Railway stations.

Oh and look, there to the left is the Central Post Office with the clock in the centre. We head in that direction.

Here is a close up of the entrance.

However, our search for postcards wasn't completely resolved. We went into the Central Post Office and walked up and down looking for what we would recognise as Postcards - i.e. pictures of various city sights with space to write on the back. I should have noticed in the article already quoted above, that when she shows images of her Tokyo postcards they are not like that at all - rather they are artistic pieces like those here.

We finally asked a helpful assistant who pointed us to what she called postcards and we would have more likely have called greetings cards. However, now we understood what Japanese postcards were like we bought the ones we needed, added comments (explaining why the cards are so odd) and went to buy stamps. It was at this point that we discovered that overseas postcards sent from japan must be sent in an envelope - kind of defeats the idea of a postcard compared to a letter in my mind, but as we are in Japan we did it the Japanese way and put the cards into envelopes, addressed them and stamped them.

We left the Post Office and walked over to the impressive statue in front of Tokyo Station. This was of Inoue Masaru, who having studied in London brought the station and railway culture of his hosts back to his own country in the early Meiji Period, when he was influential in the railway industry - it explains the front of Tokyo Station having that Victorian look. 

Raman Street

With our two tasks, finding the square and finding postcards, complete, it was time to have a bit of lunch. Back into the bowls of Tokyo Station and across to Raman Street.

Given that it is Friday we had checked the Raman restaurants' offerings in advance. No 6 in the street, the Miso Ramen Shop Hanamichian, offers a fish based ramen stock. 

Here is the selection the restaurant offers

and the chefs seem to be for ever busy in these tiny places, so cramped together, but with such delicious food.

As in our visit to another shop here on Tuesday we went to the machine and chose our two meals, Drew's the Special Raman, mine the seafood ramen and the machine churns out change and tickets, which when we reach the front of the queue we hand to the lady doorperson here. And are seated. Again the condiments are in front of us. 

Plus some interesting art.

My oolong tea comes in a plastic bottle today and we get plastic cups for the water and steel beakers with ice inside for the tea and coke

Drew says I can always be found smiling when food is on the way!

I notice there are two types of jugs, clear ones which are obviously water and others which have some Japanese written down the side of it. I use Google translate to see what might be inside it.

I discover that it is water, but that these jars have unstable tops. How we laughed 😂🤣

Drew's Special Spicy Meat Miso Raman arrived with delicious pieces of meat tempting me, both pork and chicken

My Spicy Rich Fish Broth Miso Ramen was also delicious. It is amazing what a range of flavours miso and fish sauce can combine to make with a selection of vegetables. It has those salty, tangy flavours which brings back memories of the ramens I've eaten around the world. Kauaʻi island in Hawai'i was the first place I had ramen, so eating it always brings back memories of that delightful place.  

Tokyo National Museum

Yesterday, while at Ueno Park, we had noticed that the Tokyo National Museum is opposite the park entrance, so looking for somewhere we could spend an afternoon where there would be air-conditioning - as it is still a humid 32C here in Tokyo, we opted to visit the museum.

Here is Drew on the train from Tokyo Station to Ueno Station which is 200 metres from the entrance to the Museum. 

We choose the train not the metro (both of which travel here) as the train is quicker and cheaper for a return journey, whereas the Metro would be cheaper if buying a day ticket! 

We arrive at the Museum at 2pm and pay the ¥1,000 (£5) entrance fee each.  

There are five areas to the Museum. One for Japanese Archaeology, another for art and artifacts from regions including China, Korea, Southeast Asia, Central Asia, India, and Egypt, a third for the works of Kuroda Seiki, renowned as one of Japan's earliest Western-style painters, and a fourth for works of art from Imperial Household in the years around 1878.

We head for the fifth area, the Japanese Gallery which traces the history of Japanese art from ancient Jomon times to the Edo period (1603-1868). 

The Japanese gallery has a most amazing staircase as you enter the building

The exhibits start on the first floor, you can look at all our photos on Flickr starting here, but here are two compilations of the ones I found most interesting.

The first selection includes evidence of the way Japanese Art was influenced by the European Culture after the opening up of Japan at the beginning of the Meiji restoration. This is followed by examples of the exquisite lacquer work from the Edo period that distinguishes Japanese tableware from that of its neighbour China. 

The second selection also focuses on the Edo period and shows some of the amazing female clothes from this era, plus some highly decorated fans, which though museum pieces now, were practical objects in their day. Finally the dress of the rulers of the Edo period, the Samurai with their amazing armour, swords and weapons. 

Tea

We finish our tour of the Museum at 4.30pm. We could have gone to one of the other galleries, but even in air-conditioned rooms standing and moving slowly is still hard on the feet, so we decided to go to the café in Ueno Park, it is called 'Everyone's Café'! 

Even after four days we are still amused by the detailed rules in all parts of Japanese life, this example talks about 'Annoying Acts', what is this heinous crime that annoys so many people - Skateboarding!

It being still warm and humid we decided to go for a refreshing drink and thought that a non-caffeinated version might be better for our hopes of sleeping on the plane tonight. 

 

I opted for rosehip and hibiscus tea, note the t-bag disposal pot! I normally leave herbal teas in the cup when I drink them, as they don't seem to get stronger over time in the way normal tea does.

Drew opted for a pot of Fresh Herbal Tea, this had flavours of mint, coriander and rosemary and he found it delicious and refreshing

it was served with a pot of honey

Pikachu 

Ueno Park Station is right next to the café, so we walked into the station and caught the train back to Tokyo Station arriving at 5.30pm. We walk through the underground shops in the station and Drew leads us to Character Street again, as he had missed the Pokémon store on our previous visit.  

Drew treats himself to a Pikachu from the very large Pokémon selection in Tokyo Station as part of the end of holiday, let's hope he and Captain Jack don't come to blows on the flight home! 

Back in the Shangri-La

We return to the hotel to pick up our luggage at 6pm. We sit in the air-conditioned lobby, which oddly we have not photographed before. It is a nice open space, with a reception desk and a boutique. 

We also use their toilets for the last time before leaving to catch the train at 7pm. 

Train to the Airport

We catch the JY train from Tokyo Station. Friday evening at Tokyo Station is a sight to see, a wall of people walking up from and and down to the platforms. We have no photos of the phenomenon as there isn't enough space to hold a mobile up, let alone a camera. 

We buy the tickets (still cash only for this route) and then travel three stops on the Yamastote Line to the Monorail Station where we change.  We catch the 7.30pm Monorail to Haneda International Airport for tonight's flight. The monorail is less busy than the city trains!

At the Airport

We arrive at the Airport at 8pm, four hours before the flight. They are not yet checking-in so we find a café and have a coffee while we wait.  

The Emirates check-in opens at 8.30pm and we are checked-in with our baggage next to be seen in London. We are through security in no time and into the JAL business Lounge by 8.45pm. Time for some food, some photo uploading using their excellent Wi-Fi and plenty of sparkling water. 

First Flight

Emirates Airline are an alliance partner of Qantas, so our return flights are part of the same booking as our outbound flights, just with a different airline.

At 11.30pm we are due to board our flight but because of a late crew arrival boarding doesn't begin until 12.05am. 

The layout of the plane is different from the Qantas planes, but the facilities are as good, if not better, on the Emirates plane.

The seats in particular are very comfortable.

with a built in fridge unit, so you don't have to push the call button to get a drink. Given my preferences after I took the photo they swapped the alcohol and still water for sparkling - Perrier.

Drew was in seat 7G, next to me in 7D. The barrier here is a static one, so we may need to use the in-seat phones to chat - or lean over!!

The entertainment device is above the area which is used for storage when awake and is part of the bed when aslepp

Our Boeing 777-300 takes off at 12.40am and as soon as we are in the air pyjamas are offered. Well, to use the Emirates terminology, leisurewear are offered. Having experienced pyjamas on the earlier flights this holiday I got changed straight away, avoiding any queues after dinner.

The 'leisure wear' even had a hood? I'm not sure why, but it makes for a fun photo.

Supper

It was then time for food, tonight's meal is a single course supper, rather than dinner, but it is still excellent.

 

I had Chicken and porcini mushroom roll served with cafe de Paris butter, roasted potatoes, grilled red peppers and pumpkin. It was really yummy with the chicken retaining its moistness and the roasties being crisp and crunchy.

The dessert was a cheese board with biscuits. The cheeses were Danish Blue, Double gloucester and a garlic cream cheese.

Drew remembered to take photos of the food this time. He had a vegetable pappardelle pasta with smoked aubergine purée, roasted green pepper, pumpkin, tomato sauce and parmesan. He was very, very pleased with it.

Sleep

As with the previous flights the bed sets itself up with the push of a button. As soon as we had eaten I set the bed up and was asleep by 2.15am. I made one toilet call at 4.40am and awoke at 7.15am Saturday (Japan Time) which is 2.15am Dubai time and 11.15pm on Friday UK time. We have just under four hours to go when I awake, we are currently flying over Northern India having flown over Southern Japan, Hangzhou, Kunming, Chittagong, Kolkata and are now over Nagpur. 

I get changed into my day clothes and set my phone up to listen to the episodes of the Archers I'd missed since my last flight on Monday night/Tuesday morning when I had caught up with the previous ones. Archers catch-up complete I then listened to the BBC podcast Newscast which I'd not hear since the 8th of September. Indeed, I've heard no news during this period. I've spent my time focusing on the the holiday, which is probably why I feel so relaxed. So have quite a bit of catching up to do. 

Breakfast

Breakfast is served at 8.25am (Japan Time). We had made our choices for breakfast before going to sleep last night. This is done to give people as long a sleeping time as possible.

Given the success of my Japanese breakfast on Friday, I opted for that version again this morning. 

This was a Kaiseki bento with: Mountain vegetables with dashi and soy soup; Vam soup with okra and red radish; Grilled yellowtail teriyaki with tamagoyakı, simmered hijiki and steamed Japanese rice with sesame seeds and miso soup with non, tofu and leeks; Pickled radish and shibazuke Wintermelon and pumpkin happo broth with green beans, carrot and ginkgo nut sauce; Inaniwa and green tea udon noodles with soba sauce, braised shrimps, ginger, grated yam and seaweed. Every morsel was delicious and eating with chopsticks on a moving plane is not as hard as I thought it might have been. 

This is how it arrived

and this is what was in the box

Drew opted for a more traditional breakfast of cheese and chive scrambled egg served with grilled chicken sausages, tomato ragout and sautéed spinach with a Croissant and Fresh Fruit

His breakfast finished with a selection of Luxury Chocolates. He gave me a row for not accepting these and handing them over. I'd turned them down after my delicious Japanese breakfast. I'll remember to pass them on to Drew next time!!

Dubai

We land at 6.00am Dubai time (11am Tokyo Time; 3am UK Time). A business class bus takes us passengers to the terminal before other passengers get off. I see now the answer to something that had puzzled me at the time the flight was booked. I couldn't see the option to change planes in Dubai, but it is clear that they offer a short-transfer for business class that is not available to other passengers. The transfer flight we are targeting is at 7.45am, non-business passengers would need to wait until a 9.45am plane. We arrive at the B terminal at 6.25am and go through security checks before catching a internal train to terminal A. Arriving there at 6.40am.

Second Flight

We walk to gate A22 for the flight to London and almost as soon as we arrive boarding begins promptly at 7am and we are onboard at 7.15am. 

As this is a double decker plane (EK001 is a A380-800) we are sitting upstairs

First and Business being the only two classes on the upper level, Economy is downstairs. This makes settling in much quicker as unlike the single story planes we don't have a lot of people trotting past us going to economy. 

I'm in seat 7E

Drew and I are beside each other again, but this plane has an automated divider, so we can talk to each other or block each other. 

Our two screens are closer together than in the last plane.

The plane takes off at 8.10am local time, 5.10am UK time. During the flight Drew watches Godzilla v Kong while I continue to catch-up with news via Newscast on the BBC Sounds app . 

Breakfast

Breakfast, our second, is served at 9am Dubai time (6am UK time). It is a lovely selection of fruit and a croissant.

Drew had the full breakfast which included oatmeal and chia in coconut milk served with mango compote and toasted hazelnuts, as well as the Seasonal fruit served with fresh juice and yoghurt and a Croissant 

During the flight we were able to walk to the galley a few blocks further back and select snacks, sandwiches and fruit at our discretion. We weren't greedy and only went back for additional food twice or three times.

Lunch

At 9.40am UK time (12.40 Dubai time) we were served lunch. It began with a plate of olives and a selection of salted nuts: Macadamia, Cashew, Almonds and Peanuts.

Drew's starter was a Lentil soup with toasted Arabic bread, croutons and lemon with a side salad and bread.

I had chosen the mezze, which was also served with the salad and bread. They even allowed me to taste both the Focaccia and Garlic Roll. It turned out that my Mezze also had puffed arabic bread with it, so I wasn't short of bread!! The mezze was houmous, rabouleh, kisir, soslu patlican and lamb kibbeh. Like many arabic dishes the rich olive oil and sharp lemon flavours accompany each of the dishes so, so well. 

For mains Drew opted for Lamb quzi with hashwa, this is Lamb cutlets served with Gulf-style sauce and biryani rice, garnished with fried cashew nuts

I choose the Grilled beef tenderloin served with mushroom and veal jus, potato gratin and sautéed green beans with veal bacon strips. The tenderloin was so tender it fell apart in the mouth. It was an interesting juxtaposition of British (well French really) food and the arabic food of the starter course. 

My meal was completed by an amazingly delicious cheese board with Mimolette, Brie and Belvoir Stilton as the cheeses. All three are cheeses I'd have chosen for a cheese board of my own making, so it was wonderful to be offered them here. 

As the flight continues Drew watches some more films orders a mocktail, which are available throughout the flight and  I carry on listening to BBC Sounds podcasts, having caught up with Newscast I am now listening to Americast and Ukrainecast alternately.  

Heathrow

We land at Heathrow at 12.20pm, right on time. As usual we taxied for a while and arrived at the gate at 12.30pm (8.30pm Tokyo Time) exactly 24 hours since we checked in last night!! Thank heavens for the sleep we managed overnight, the cost of business class was worth it for the good sleep, and arriving at Heathrow refreshed not ragged, alone. 

We went through passport control and then collected our luggage at 12.55pm.

Due to doubt about the timings and not knowing how long it would take to get our luggage we didn't book the 1.30pm direct coach to London, but the 3.30pm, so we have some time to wait before our return journey to Cardiff. We spend the time reading at the Black Sheep Coffee Shop in the Heathrow Coach Station.

The coach leaves at 3.30pm and stops at Newport and then drops us at Sophia Gardens, Cardiff at 6.25pm. 

We walk across to Greyfriars Road where we catch the 7pm (running 15 minutes late) 132 for the trip home. Arriving at 7.45pm. The end of a very long day's journey, but a thoroughly enjoyable holiday.